Hungary's Favourite Grapes
Hungarian winemakers are increasingly turning to internationally recognised grape varietals to break into the world market, often with great success. For example, winemakers in southern Hungary, especially in the sunny regions of Villány and Szekszárd, are now producing Cabernet Sauvignons and Pinot Noirs to rival those of any European country. The ever-popular Chardonnay is also grown on about 3,000 hectares of land, notably in the Mátraalja and Balatonboglár regions.
Hungary also has a number of grapes of its own, many of which yield unique wines that will surprise and delight. Most of these are white, reflecting the country’s traditional emphasis on white wine.
Kadarka
Kadarka hails originally from the Balkans, but is considered Hungary’s own red grape. It was traditionally an important ingredient in the various blends that make Bull’s Blood, but some producers are now using it to make single varietal wines. It produces red wines that are low in tannin with an often spicy and sometimes fiery taste. The best Kadarka wines come from Szekszárd.
Kékfrankos
Known as Blaufrankisch in Germany and Austria, Kékfrankos can be found all over central Europe but is the country’s most common red grape by some distance. A large number of leading winemakers use this grape to produce pleasant, tart wines. Comparing those grown in the north eastern Sopron region with those from Villány in the south makes for an interesting lesson in the power of terroir to affect a wine’s flavour.
Cserszegi Fűszeres
A white grape that was marketed in the UK as “The Unpronouncable Grape”, the name actually means “the spicy grape from the town of Cserszeg”. The grape yields highly aromatic wines, with a bouquet that is often compared to wild flowers.
Furmint
Thought to have originated in southern Italy or Serbia, by the mid 1800s Furmint had become the dominant grape in the Tokaj region. Because it ripens with a high sugar content, it is ideal for dessert wines, and is an important ingredient in many Tokaji Aszús. Some producers in Tokaj and Somló also produce dry Furmints, which can have an alcohol content as high as 15%. They can be fiery or very refined. A good example is Disznókő’s dry Tokaji Furmint.
Hárslevelű
Hárslevelű, literally “linden leaved”, is an ancient Hungarian variety similar in character to Furmint. It tends to yield softer, more aromatic wines and is grown primarily in the Northern Tokaj, Eger and Mátraalja regions.
Zéta (Oremus)
Something of a rarity, Zéta is grown on only about 62 hectares of land around Tokaj, but is one of only four grape varieties that are permitted in a Tokaji Aszú.
Sárga Muskotály (Muscat Lunel)
This is not actually a Hungarian grape, but is another of the four grapes sanctioned for use in Tokaji Aszú and is prized all over the world as one of the finest aromatic grapes. Tokaj wineries such as Degenfeld and Hétszőlő also produce very clear, crisp and aromatic dry or semi-dry wines from this grape.
Juhfark, Hungarian for “sheep’s tail”, is considered the stiffest, most rustic of Hungarian wines. This ancient grape is grown primarily in the Somló region, where it thrives on the volcanic soils, and yields robust, sometimes fiery wines with high mineral content.
Irsai Oliver
A variety with which the UK wine drinker may be familiar – several companies and supermarkets have been importing Irsai Oliver in recent years. Wines from this grape tend to have a delicate acid structure, and the aroma has been compared to Muscat. It produces fragrant, soft wines that are best drunk young.
