There can be no more delightful an odyssey then to travel from Budapest to the ancient wineyards of Hungary, stopping along the way to taste the food and wine that make Hungary famous.
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Eger
A renowned wine region, the lively town of Eger also has a proud history, defined by its heroic resistance to the Turks, which is immortalised by Géza Gárdonyi in his classic Eclipse of the Crescent Moon. Legend has it that just 2,000 soldiers defended the formidable castle in 1552, backed ably by the town’s womenfolk, who showered rocks, hot soup and boiling fat on the Turks below. The siege is also reputed to have given the local Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) wine its name. Although the town was eventually captured and ransacked in 1596, after its occupiers were finally expelled in 1687, Eger experienced something of a wine-fuelled revival. The town was rebuilt in the Baroque style. The cathedral is the most dominant building, but the town’s Turkish minaret is also worth a visit and provides striking views.
Hollókő
The strikingly restored black and white houses of the region’s Palóc people, an intriguing ethnic minority whose traditional dress varies from village to village, provide a unique view of Hungarian peasant life. The village has several museums displaying costumes, photographs, pottery, weaving and other arts and crafts.
Szilvásvárad
Nestled in the beautiful Bükk Hills, Szilvásvárad is the home of the celebrated Lipizzaner horses, considered to be the best riding horses in the world, despite their small stature. Not only are they very robust and graceful, they can also be trained to perform elaborate dressage manoeuvres.
Miskolc
Hungary’s third largest city has several interesting churches and synagogues to explore, but the cave baths steal the show a 20-minute ride away on the No. 2 bus. The outdoor complex, a series of atmospheric pools discovered in 1920, is tailor-made for wallowing.
Lillafüred
Twelve kilometres west of Miskolc, the tranquil resort of Lillafüred is best known for its neo-Renaissance palace hotel nestled in a lakeside forest. The village’s two stalactite caves also attract visitors and the surrounding area lends itself to hiking.
Tokaj
Stunningly attractive and quaint it may be, but Tokaj is all about its wine.
The wine region around the attractive Baroque town of Eger is often associated with Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), a robust red wine the Turkish invaders believed to have strength-giving properties akin to Asterix’s magic potion. Wine has been made here for over 1,000 years, and a new breed of winemakers is successfully blending traditional techniques with modern methods to put Eger back on the wine map.
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The world-famous Tokaj-Hegyalja region lies in the foothills of the Zemplén mountains in the far north-east of the country and extends over the Slovakian border. Easily accessible from Budapest by car or train, the picturesque town that gives the region its name is the perfect base for exploring the surrounding winegrowing villages. What’s more, there are plenty of hotels and guesthouses to choose from.
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